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HOTELS Interview: Simplifying the fine-dining tabletop

Even as hotel F&B concepts push beyond the traditional, particularly in the realm of “fine dining,” the objective for their tabletops may be to keep things simple.

That marks a shift in philosophy from just a few years ago, when restaurants sometimes focused on complicated concepts — including the tabletop — in a misguided attempt to be noticed, explains Jay Wetzel, senior corporate director of food and beverage for Rosewood Hotels & Resorts, Hong Kong. As part of a broader story about fine-dining tabletop trends, HOTELS asked Wetzel about the importance of the tabletop in creating an elegant atmosphere, the evolution of tabletops in recent years and what the next big trend might be.

HOTELS: What overall trends are you observing in terms of tabletops at fine-dining restaurants at hotels?

Jay Wetzel: The number of fine-dining establishments within hotels — and in general — has been gradually decreasing. Tabletops have evolved to become simpler, with their overall aesthetic appearing much cleaner and less fussy. You’ll also notice that many establishments have eliminated the white tablecloth for lunch in favor of natural woods and similar materials to further reduce the formality.

HOTELS: How can tabletops contribute to the overall atmosphere, particularly at a fine-dining restaurant?

Wetzel: The tabletop illustrates the restaurant’s commitment to delivering exceptional food and beverage experiences. It is an essential component of the overall restaurant design, and both must complement each other in terms of the materials, colors and shapes used. The tabletop is part of a guest’s first impression and, if done well, enhances his or her understanding of the restaurant’s concept.

The tabletop itself should be clean and concept-driven, particularly in fine-dining restaurants. It is not the quantity of items on the table, but their quality that makes a difference. However, at the same time, items must be practical and of the right proportion so as not to interfere with a smooth and discrete service flow. Menus must also be kept simple yet tasteful, and fabrics must be of the finest quality to enhance each guest’s sensory experience.

HOTELS: How have you seen tabletops at fine-dining restaurants evolve?

Wetzel: As restaurant and dining concepts have evolved, so too has the tabletop. Up to 10 years ago most restaurants employed a very traditional style and ambiance, many of which were often repetitive across different brands. This was the style.

The huge growth in the hospitality industry paired with increasingly savvy and well-traveled guests also pushed hotels to create concepts that are different and stand out from the masses. This, in turn, has led to fine-dining concepts — including the tabletop — that became overly contrived and complicated.

In recent years, though, this trend has started to simplify again, with hoteliers and interior designers working together to create a complete, fully thought-out concept that is both stylish and that works holistically.

“The tabletop itself should be clean and concept-driven, particularly in fine-dining restaurants. It is not the quantity of items on the table, but their quality that makes a difference.” – Jay Wetzel
“The tabletop itself should be clean and concept-driven, particularly in fine-dining restaurants. It is not the quantity of items on the table, but their quality that makes a difference.” – Jay Wetzel

HOTELS: What bold prediction would you make in terms of future trends with tabletops at fine-dining restaurants, particularly those at hotels?

Wetzel: Perhaps the definition of fine-dining itself is changing. Although high-quality materials are important, taste and style will eventually become the main dictators of a concept because they truly help define a restaurant’s personality and theme. For example, what was old is now vintage. It will become a true matter of preference and fusing the appropriate elements to create a unified concept, design and environment.

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