Great Hotel Restaurant judge Jean-Luc Fourrier, an asset manager from Dubai, put it best: “As beautiful as a hotel room can be, great hotel restaurants and bars are the best way to express the genuine hotel commitment in making people feel amazing and connected.”
For the 2016 awards program, the words “genuine” and “connected” ring through the judges comments, as well as in the chef’s inspiration. Indeed, the judges are charged with looking for hotel restaurants that truly impress guests, offer value, more often today have that local and authentic approach, and are so successful that diners want to return. It’s a recipe for success on all levels.
This year’s 10 winners run the gamut from the glam at Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and traditional Italian cuisine with a contemporary twist at Le Sirenuse’s La Sponda in Positano, Italy, to clean interpretations of traditional Maharashtra and street food at the Oberoi Mumbai’s Ziya. What connects all of them here is there passion to deliver, whether it be traditional or nouvelle, with dedication and a individual flair that brings guests coming back for more. Bravo!
Here is a roundup of the 10 winners, followed by the criteria and list of judges:
Country Kitchen, Rosewood, Beijing
Executive chef: Leo Chai
Style and reputation: Northern Chinese street cuisine at its best, delicious food in a dramatic room.
Seats: 135
Average dinner check: US$30-45
Menu focus: Northern Chinese comfort food, resurrecting classic “lost recipes” once beloved by Beijingers, such as roasted and clay pot pork belly.Signature dish: Traditional wood-roasted Peking Duck. The secret of the delicacy lies in the duck being raised to a specific weight before being slaughtered, dressed, coated in syrup, hung dry and then roasted in an open oven. At Country Kitchen, the duck chef starts slicing the duck while the server stands by the table. In total, 88 delicate slices of duck meat with crispy skin is cut for guests.
Chef’s inspiration: To guarantee authentic flavors and freshness on a menu that changes by season, ingredients are sourced directly from producers such as Daxing Ronking farm, which is known for its Inner Mongolian lamb and organic pork, roots and green vegetables, and the Shunyi farm area for chicken and eggs.
Judges comment: “Excellent Chinese comfort food. Great for when you’re travelling and want to eat the local food, but also want to know that you’re getting fresh ingredients… I love mapo tofu, and their version is great.” – Frank Ansel
Scarlett Wine Bar & Restaurant, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, Thailand
Executive chef: Sylvain Royer
Style and reputation: Brasserie-style preparations, market fresh seasonal produce, traditional recipes, fair pricing and a wine list to return to. Run by R&B Lab Co., always and simply good French food, cheese board (80 kinds of French cheeses) in a cool atmosphere on the 37th floor with panoramic views from the stylish lounge or alfresco on the terrace.
Seats: 160
Average check: US$29
Menu focus: Imported cold cuts and cheeses, tapas, salads, pastas. All cold cuts, pâté, rillettes, garlic sausage and hams are cut with a Berkel slicer. The table beef tartar is a favorite, as are creative variations such as tuna and smoked salmon tartar. Standout meat dishes include braised beef cheeks, which reference forgotten bourgeois foods, as well as dry-aged prime rib from Australia.
Chef’s inspiration: Always based on what he likes to eat; the association of flavors that he knows work well together; the freshness and quality of the produce from fresh markets. “I love to immerse myself in the culture of different countries, interact with the people, discover the history and of course eat the food.”
Judges comments: “The restaurant has always had a great vibe… The cuisine is casual contemporary French and the highlight is walking up to the charcuterie and cheese display to create your own “board” from a vast selection. Throw in a high caliber wine list and let the magic begin! – Francis Zimmerman, managing director, South East Asia, SilverNeedle Group, Bangkok
La Locanda, Ritz-Carlton Kyoto, Japan
Executive chef: Valentino Palmisano
Style and reputation: Style and authentic Italian cuisine with locally sourced Japanese products. Private room, once the townhouse of Fujita Founder Denzaburo Fujita, was re-assembled as a private dining room and preserved as a spiritual space. It contains wood over 700 years old.
Number of seats: 108
Average dinner check: US$100
Menu focus: Chef Valentino Palmisano married traditional Italian cuisine with fine local Japanese ingredients to create classic Italian cooking with a contemporary twist, served in an atmospheric dining space.
Chef’s inspiration: Nishiki Market, which is a five-block long covered market known as “Kyoto’s Kitchen.” More than 100 vendors with everything locally produced and procured. “We never have to decide what to cook. The seasons tell us what to cook.”
Signature dish: Humble Spaghetti di Gragnano con pomodori San Marzano e basilica, which Chef charmingly calls, “Spaghetti Tomato.”
Judges comment: “The Fusion of an Italian cuisine with a Japanese element, in a modern Japanese décor. La Locanda is well recognized for his genuine and warm service.” – Patrick Willis
Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée, Hotel Plaza Athénée, Paris
Executive Chef: Romain Meder
Style and reputation: finest place for breakfast, unmatched pastries and eggs with caviar, glamorous dining.
Number of seats: 47
Menu style: Chef Romain Meder represents the naturalness cuisine, inspired by the fish-vegetables-cereals trilogy. Healthier and more natural, more respectful of the planet, it delivers an instinctive interpretation of haute cuisine, revealing the produces’ original flavor, from the noble to the humble.
Signature dish: Atlantic sea bass, young leeks and black olives.
Judges comment: “Alain Ducasse has inspired generations of chefs and understands the natural evolution of food and the restaurant. Naturalness and simplicity of that particular restaurant is present at every course. His designer, Patrick Jouin, translates his vision by an inspiring design and art de la table.” – Patrick Willis
Jaleo by Jose Andrés, Cosmopolitan Hotel and Casino, Las Vegas
Head chef: Luis Montesinos
Style and reputation: Best wood-fired paella and cocktails.
Menu focus: An assortment of tapas, as well as savory paellas, sangrias and a selection of Spanish wines and sherries in a festive, casual atmosphere, all under the direction of Chef José Andrés.
Seats: 220
Average dinner check: US$75.
Signature dish: José’s Taco: Spain’s national culinary treasure, Jamon Iberico de Bellota, topped with Royal Osetra Caviar and gold flakes.
Judges comment: “I voted for Jaleo because José Andrés crafts sublime cocktails. His gin and tonic is iconic! The wood fired paella is fantastic and something I have never had in the U.S.” – Elizabeth Blau
Ziya, The Oberoi, Mumbai
Executive chef: Vineet Bhatia
Style and reputation: Food absolutely sublime, clean interpretations of traditional Maharashtra and street food. International ingredients and tastes of traditional India are paired together to offer modern preparations with unique flavors presented in a contemporary style.
Number of seats: 74
Average dinner check: US$100
Menu focus: Sophisticated Indian restaurant serving modern interpretations of Indian cuisine. Use of both international and seasonal ingredients results in preparations with bold flavors. A la carte and degustation menu, including a vegetarian option.
Signature dish: Tandoori Scottish Salmon is marinated with sweet spices of cardamom, dill in honey and then smoked using an age-old technique involving charcoal. The salmon is then cooked in a tandoor and is smoked again. The smoke that emanates is sealed along with the salmon under a dome.
Chef’s inspiration: Experimented with various techniques relentlessly, until he created something innovative that guests enjoyed. Inspired by what he sees and observes and hence travels as much as possible.
Judges comment: “The Indian cooking is evolved, sophisticated and very well executed, which reflects the modern Mumbai. It also reflects the passion that P.R.S. Oberoi has for fine food and service.” – Patrick Willis
Skye, Hotel Unique, Sao Paulo
Executive chef: Emmanuel Bassoleil
Style and reputation: Pool terrace or inside, rooftop views over the city, super sushi.
Number of seats: 80
Average dinner check: US$80
Menu focus: Influenced by the cultural heritage of Sao Paulo with Brazilian, Italian and Japanese influences, as well as from Chef Bassoleil’s personal background, originally hailing from Dijon, France.
Signature dish: PF Risotto and Steamed Seabass filet in a champagne caviar sauce with yam purée and a Brazilian pastry stuffed with mujol and Sicilian lemon
Chef’s inspiration: Local and international trips, visits to Brazilian markets in search of regional and seasonal products. Frequently engaging guests with the intent of making them happier by offering them wide variety of options.
Fera, Claridge’s, London
Executive chef: Simon Rogan
Style and reputation: Beautifully appointed, modern British cuisine, amazing detail in presentation.
Seats: 102
Average dinner check: US$98
Menu focus: Regularly changing a la carte and tasting menus inspired by the constant changing of the seasons, using only exceptional, mostly home-grown ingredients harvested in their prime. For example, Scallops from “Gairloch” are served with Kohlrabi marinated in oyster juice, pickled endive, newly discovered apple marigold and oyster cream.
Signature dish: Stewed rabbit with lovage.
Menu inspiration: The emphasis is very much on the quality and provenance of the ingredients. Chef now has four farms in the UK (Cartmel, Pershore, Keveral and the New Forest) and as much as ingredients as possible comes from there.
Judges comment: “Unique well thought through dishes with innovative presentation.” – Trent Walsh
Ka’Ana Kitchen, Andaz Maui, Hawaii
Executive chef: Isaac Bancaco
Style and reputation: Best interactive/live-station breakfast concept.
Seats: 120
Average dinner check: US$77
Menu focus: Sharing food with the people you love is a big part of traditional Hawaiian culture, and Ka’ana Kitchen serves up family-style dishes, featuring island products from local farmers, foragers and locavores in simple but flavorful dishes.
Signature dish: Grilled octopus salad with secret sicily (local goat cheese), watercress, asparagus and bitter greens
Chef’s inspiration: Authentic experiences and personal interactions between guests, local farmers and fishermen, as well as the natural beauty of the island, and ability to purchase the best possible ingredients.
Judges comment: “Best interactive breakfast buffet I have seen.” – Trent Walsh
La Sponda, Le Sirenuse, Positano, Italy
Executive chef: Gennaro Russo
Style and reputation: Traditional Italian cuisine with a contemporary twist, amazing music, a distillation of everything that’s still gorgeous and elegant about the Amalfi coast.
Number of seats: 70
Average dinner check: US$86
Menu focus: Local ingredients revisit the Neapolitan traditional with a modern twist.
Signature dishes: Beef tartare with marinated egg yolk, eggplant cream and Dijon mustard; spaghetti from Gragnano with sea-urchins and green peppers; sea bass with almonds from d’Avola and dried tomatoes
Chef’s inspiration: His passion for fresh and genuine ingredients as well as the local culture and tradition.
Judges comment: “Genaro Russo, one of the most promising Italian chefs, cooks a Mediterranean food inspired by the local terroir. The hotel’s surroundings set for a romantic evening and delivers an authentic Italian experience.” – Patrick Willis
Criteria
- The judges look for hotel restaurants that truly impress guests. They are not saying these are “the best,” but they are great.
- They can represent all levels and all meal periods.
- They must have been operational for at least a year, and they must be operated by the hotel or with minimal assistance from a consultant or celebrity chef.
- The restaurant meets its intent; busy with outside as well as in-house diners; meets standards in service, food and drink, décor and ambiance; offers value; and is financially successful.
The judges
Frank Ansel, hotel restaurant consultant, Buenos Aires
Elizabeth Blau, CEO, Blau and Associates, Las Vegas
Tiffany Dowd, founder, Luxe Social Media and Luxe Tiffany, Boston
Jean-Luc Fourrier, senior director asset management, Majid Al Futtaim Hotels, Dubai
Andre Fu, founder, A.F.S.O and AndreFuLiving, Hong Kong
Alison Gilmore, ILTM portfolio director, London
Oleg Kafarov, director of public affairs, Jumeirah Group, Dubai
John Nielsen, practical program and sales & marketing manager, Les Roches Jin Jiang Hotel Management College, Shanghai
Bob Puccini, president and CEO, Puccini Group, San Francisco and London
Trent Walsh, managing director, Leading Quality Assurance, Vancouver
Patrick Willis, COO, Marlon Abela Restaurant Corp., London and New York
Francis Zimmermann, managing director, South East Asia, SilverNeedle Group, Bangkok