Profit On A Platter
By Rebecca Oliva, Staff Editor -- Hotels, 2/28/2003 11:00:00 PM
Cheese courses are popping up in fine dining hotel restaurants in North America and beyond. While Europeans have realized the dining pleasures of cheese for centuries, the rest of the world is just now catching up.
"This is the continuity of the American culinary revolution that started in the '70s," says Giorgio Di Lemis, executive director of food and beverage, Gaylord Palms Resort and Convention Center, Orlando, Florida. The Old Hickory Steakhouse at Gaylord Palms started a cheese course recently in light of the growing trend. "We saw the subject of cheese becoming popular."
Others agree with that sentiment. Four Seasons Chicago Executive Chef Robert Sulatycky brought his cheese course with him from Four Seasons Toronto, where he originally started the program. "As people travel more and discover cheese in other parts of the world mainly Europe, they return home and search out or demand these great cheeses that they have enjoyed on their travels," he says.
Even Europeans, the originators of the cheese course, have improved their menus to win more business. Grand Hotel Continental Siena, Italy, serves a large cheese course with its signature wine service. The cheese selection was enhanced to complement the wine menu and keep guests interested.
But as for North America, the cheese course is not only gaining popularity, it's gaining profits. The average price of a cheese course varies depending upon which cheeses are in season, but Sulatycky says, a good one is around US$15. Gaylord's Di Lemis says 22% of guests order cheese courses, up from just 6% to 7% when the program first launched in January 2002. "The trickle-down economics of this course is that it allows the guest to linger at the table," he says. "We offer cheese-friendly wines to accompany this course as well. It is not just selling cheese but also port and wine."
Similar to what Hotel Grand Siena did with its recently opened Sapordivino Wine Bar and Restaurant. The new concept wine bar offers a selection of 400 wines and a showroom displaying 3,100 bottles. Sapordivino offers guests a cheese cart of local Italian cheeses and suggestions of wines to go with them.
Choosing A Cheese Selection
Despite the simplicity of serving a cheese course, Di Lemis says, careful consideration must be given to the types of cheeses offered. Old Hickory Steakhouse serves 12 to 18 different cheeses from small cheese farmers in France, Italy, Canada, Spain and the United States. While the majority of cheeses offered in North American restaurants are European, Sulatycky equates the growth of the artisanal American cheese production to the development of the American wine industry. "More restaurants are offering some of the fantastic American cheeses that are being produced," he says.
But in addition to knowing what to put on the menu, Di Lemis says, it is important to know what to look for in a good cheese. Since Old Hickory's cheese come from different countries, guidelines were established to keep food safe. "They have to pass certain tests and come from healthy, unstressed animals." Once the cheese is delivered, Di Lemis and the F&B team age the cheese to control the acidity.
"The key to success with a cheese program is education," Sulatycky says. "We first need to educate our staff so that they can in turn help educate our guests." Four Seasons brings in cheese suppliers to do training seminars with service and kitchen staff. Sulatycky adds that it is important to have many selections, and that servers are well-trained to guide guests through the selection process. Many individuals are not accustomed to some of the strong cheeses the hotel offers and need the guidance of a knowledgeable server.
Old Hickory hired its own maitre de fromage to choose, store and help present the cheese cart. The maître de fromage approaches the table with the cheese cart, which depicts a mini cheese store. Cheeses are marked and organized according to flavor—from mild to strong. Guests receive a label with their cheese that includes the country of origin and the overall taste, similar to a wine description.
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