Hotel restaurants used to present their cuisine on fine white china, white linens and simple glassware. Even if the menu included avant-garde dishes, tabletops rarely reflected that sentiment. Today however, things have changed. Chefs must cater to a changing audience— one that is more educated about different cuisine, and one that appreciates a bit of style on the table. To meet the needs of these audiences, hotel restaurants new and old are finding ways to match the mood of the food with tabletop pieces.

"People knew what they could expect on the table at a hotel restaurant even before they came into the dining room," says Craig Reed, director of food and beverage, The Broadmoor, Colorado Springs, Colorado. "It is much more creative now than before. There is a move against stark formality."

More restaurants are updating their tabletop looks to rival their stand-alone competitors. Formality is taking on a different form—one that includes color and adds personality to the table. Accent pieces spruce up an otherwise ordinary dining table. Colored glasses add glamour to the traditional counterparts. The cuisine is playing an important role in determining the china patterns and glassware.

The Broadmoor recently underwent an extensive two-year renovation during which the tabletop design was revisited at the Charles Court restaurant. "I think the tabletop tells a great story," Reed says. "We use creative shapes and colors to further enhance the look. When it comes to food, guests eat with their eyes. This is carried over with the glasses, china and entire tabletop as well."

Updating what is on the table gives you a chance to rethink what you want your guests to take away, Reed says. "You can create a new identity with a little creativity," he says.

La Côte Saint-Jacques, Joigny, France did just that when the dining room was recently renovated to keep it in line with the outdoor scenery. The restaurant overlooks a river, and according to Brigitte Lorain, manager of the hotel, the tabletop design matches the colors outside.

"We wanted something that would complement the view outside," Lorain says. "We are trying to go for a look that emphasizes the fine cuisine. People come here to experience the fine dishes. We want to set the mood for them before they even experience a sip of wine or take a bite of food."

Part of the Relais & Châteaux group, La Côte Saint-Jacques has a traditional French ambience. To complement this, Lorain commissioned local artisans to create plates with different patterns and color. Each plate is as distinctive "as the food presented on it."

Although Lorain says she and the F&B team try to set a mood that prepares guests for the cuisine to come, the décor is not intrusive or overbearing. "You need to design a table that complements the cuisine, not overshadows it," she says.

Other hotels are clearing their tables as well. When NANA at Wyndham Anatole in Dallas went through its massive refurbishment, the F&B staff changed not only its location and décor but also upgraded it to a fine-dining establishment. Naturally, a change this large called for a new tabletop strategy. Paul Pinnell, NANA's general manager, says the design team was going for a clean, contemporary look to set the stage for a new more sophisticated menu. He chose to splurge on certain elements for the table. "I think by far the biggest difference of anything on the tabletop is the quality of the linen," he says. Patterns are subtle, yet textured enough for guests to notice. "The color and texture of the linens give the table a rich look," Pinnell says.

Pinnell traded bulky centerpieces for smaller ones to keep accessories to a minimum. Tables were increased from 38 inches (97 cm) to 40-inch (102-cm) round tables to allow for more space.

"Certainly the restaurant industry is going for a cleaner, crisper look," Pinnell says. For special dishes, Pinnell uses dramatically colored plates in odd sizes. While most of these alternative plates are not set on the tables, Pinnell says they add a sense of distinction to the table. Most of the accessory dishes are one-of-a-kind pieces that Pinnell believes make NANA stand apart from other restaurants of its kind.

Other hotels underwent similar renovations to rid their tables of excess. The Inn At Perry Cabin, St. Michaels, Maryland, sets up only the bare necessities for its new restaurant. White linen, simple glassware and a candle centerpiece add spaciousness to the room. The Park Hyatt Stanhope followed this trend with white linens and simple china, silverware and glass patterns. Seasonal flower arrangements add color to the table without adding bulk.

Gran Meliá, Cancun, chose to buck the trend of having a Mexican-themed dining room in order to serve its upscale Mexican cuisine. Instead, it chose to highlight the ocean view, and add color only by way of the cobalt blue water glasses. White linens and classic, simple glassware are used.

Here is a look at what new and renovated hotel restaurants are doing to make their tabletops a cut above the rest.

Direct comments to: roliva@reedbusiness.com