Runway Or The Hotel Way?

How fashion-forward can staff attire be? Hoteliers and designers offer their take on everything from trends to creating a wardrobe, important extras, as well as do's and don'ts.

By Staff -- HOTELS Magazine, 5/1/2007

“Unlike the world of high fashion, uniform design is less prone to seasonal swings. In our opinion, hotel uniforms are influenced more by functionality, practicality and comfort than what’s currently strutting down the fashion runways. Cultural sensitivities play a big factor in this part of the world. Attire which reveals too much is in appropriate, even if it may be in vogue on the catwalk.” – Sinan Yilmaz, resident manager of Shangri-La’s Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa, Penang.

“I live in one of the most pretentious cities in the world (New York City) and work in one of the most pretentious industries in the world (fashion design). But, pretension is not what my designs are about, and it’s not what NYLO’s staff apparel is about. Designs for staff attire have to be understandable, but not dummied down.” – Daniel Vosovic, the designer responsible for the NYLO Collection

“Runway designs are integral to our design process. We look at designs from all around the world. Sometimes, certain designs are more appropriate for certain clients. For instance, we looked mostly at European fashion houses for the InterContinental Park Lane, as their designs were most relevant to the property. Current fashion trends are extremely important to us. As the designer Robert Fajfrowski said, ‘The most integral part of the design inspiration comes from the tailors of Saville Row and their influence on tailored menswear.’ Ozwald Boateng’s style was one from which we took our direction—tailored, closer to the body, sharper lines, great fabrics, details such as piping, trims and topstitching in traditional high-end suits.” – Kass Graham, design manager, Sally Fourmy & Associates, a division of Cintas

“Part of our work is trend monitoring, so we keep a close eye on what is happening in the areas of fashion, music, arts, sports, technology and general consumer behaviors. We wish to know where the trends are heading, not necessarily to follow them (it’s preferable to create the trends), but to get a general sense of perspective. The lifespan of a uniform should be about five years to match the general cycle of renovation that usually takes in place in a hotel. We can’t be too fashion-forward, but we can make sure the uniforms are in tune with medium-term trends and inject some personality into the hotel.” – Henry Chebaane, creative director, Blue Sky Hospitality

“Selecting designs that are too fashionable and will suit only model types is a big pitfall, as is selecting a look that will date quickly. Colors such as orange are very fashionable now, but they become unfashionable as quickly as they became fashionable. Food and beverage uniforms are possibly the most trend setting aspect of any hotel’s uniform program. They reflect the positioning of the outlet and allow the hotel to be brave without being judged.” – Elie Rassam, managing director, Emile Rassam

“The world’s fashion trends revolutionize at a rapid rate. We, as consumers, are being offered new ‘must have’ trends from month to month. Considering that it is a very expensive project to update uniforms for staff, it is important first to ensure that one chooses good, classical modern lines over high fashion. Bearing that in mind, the trend for the uniform style is dependent on the market positioning of the hotel. The Cape Grace is a very upmarket city hotel deal with sophisticated travelers from all over the world’s design capitals. Therefore, it very important for the staff to be modern and stylish.” – Catherine Moore, fashion designer

Create A Wardrobe
“Give people something they want to wear. Your staff represents the brand during every shift. Choose designs that work with that brand image. Mix and match pieces provide variety. The NYLO Collection offers a long-sleeved tee, sweaters, skirts, pants, shirts, jackets, ties, belts, bags, mini-dresses with leggings and more. These pieces can be combined to work for any body type, any age. We based the collection around muted grays, whites and blacks. Some colors just don’t work. You could design a mini-skirt in burgundy and it would still look old.” – Daniel Vosovic

“Seasonal pieces are necessary for most climates. So, we’re seeing more layering and adding pieces to make a full winter ensemble. We’re utilizing more performance fabrics/garments that are constructed to combat the elements. Mix and match or “wardrobe dressing” is experiencing a resurgence. It gives employees the ability to customize their own look within a grouping of garments. It’s very empowering and motivating.” – Kass Graham

“The uniform needs to offer a variety of coordinated pieces that work together depending on the weather and staff requirements. It would be wise economically to use the same suit through different seasons. So, the fabric needs to be of a medium weight. The interchange of tops and blouses provides versatility between the seasons. F&B staff are very much in the public eye. They, too, need to reflect the genre and the market stance of the hotel. Chefs are celebrities and need to have individual style. Trendy trousers and shirts can be used, but always topped with the traditional apron and chef’s hat to underpin the chef’s role in the environment.” – Catherine Moore

“Mix and match is still too complicated for many hotels and it takes too long to manage. But we are seeing a trend toward an AM/PM uniform option. Many hoteliers want a different look for staff at night to upgrade the overall effect. We’re also seeing that the back of the house is no longer in the background. Staff is being seen more often in the front of the house. That means the front of the house look is being extended throughout the staff attire.” – Elie Rassam

Important Extras
“Ties are one of the easiest ways to a statement, says Kass Graham. They individualize men and set them apart. They also can differentiate men according to their post at the hotel.”
With jewelry, think pop culture—where appropriate. Graham’s team fielded a number of calls for silk floral brooches after Sarah Jessica Parker sported one on Sex in the City.

Comfort is key with shoes—to a certain point. Graham points out that, while mainstream athletic shoe manufacturers are developing dress heels with athletic shoe technology, casual won’t work for every staff member. “A beautiful cocktail ensemble can be ruined if it is not worn with the proper shoe,” she says. Adds Robert van der Ham, general manager of the InterContiental London Park Lane, “We would lie to see the industry take a stronger view on incorporating shoes into the overall look of the uniform.”

Do’s & Don’ts
Get a guarantee on fabric availability for up to five years if possible, recommends Elie Rassam.

Build economies of scale. In one program designed by Emile Rassam, every employee wears the same black trousers. “When casual staff are being employed for banquets, the hotel never needs to worry about having the right size trouser,” says Elie Rassam. Another money saver, says Catherine Moore, is a wardrobe that gives staff the option to rotate some items to reduce wear and tear.

Drop the name tag; add some detail. The lobby of the Fairmont Orchid is “a sea of mass produced aloha shirts.” “Guests shouldn’t have to look frantically for a staff member,” says Kass Graham. The solution was to create custom prints for large departments such as housekeeping and pool servers/outdoor banquet staff. A stylized orchid symbol is integrated into attire for the door/bell/valet area as well as the front desk and F&B areas.

Merchandise the look. With fashion designers from Michael Kors to Narcisco Rodriguez crossing over into hotel apparel design, what guest may not have “uniform” envy? NYLO is leveraging the design impact of Daniel Vosovic’s designs by offering many of the mix and match pieces for sale in the hotel’s boutiques and on the NYLO Web Site.

Star Turn
Uniform redesigns usually are more about back rooms than board rooms. Embassy Suites Hotels broke that mold. The brand played out its re-imaging initiative for its team uniforms in front of a worldwide audience of more than 10 million viewers on Donald Trump’s television program, “The Apprentice.” What started out as a marketing and product placement vehicle for Embassy Suites Hotels, rewarded the brand with “something we could take to the next level.”

“Hotel uniforms haven’t changed in a long time. When we decided to re-imagine the team uniforms for Embassy Suites, we really wanted to make a statement,” says Cindy Patton, senior director, brand and product services, Embassy Suites Hotels. Apprentice hopefuls, Gold Rush, worked with designer Edward Wilkerson, the creative force behind New York’s Lafayette 148, to create the basis for distinctive wardrobe concepts that would work for urban, suburban and resorts hotels.

Wilkerson and brand representatives began the process by interviewing team members to get input to turn the initial “wardrobing concepts” into workable staff attire. “It really was the teams’ input that shaped the design,” says Patton. Hotel apparel specialist Cintas leveraged its knowledge of construction and durability to bring the sketches to life.

The biggest change in this next generation approach to staff dressing starts with new fabrics. “Stiff polyester uniforms look outdated and uncomfortable. We now know we can use softer polyester for durability, accent these fabrics with timeless trends and subtle branding elements and create an entirely new look for our team members,” says Patton.

Instead of a one-look fits all program for the brand, the new Embassy Suites wardrobe reflects the trend toward property-specific dressing: the Skyline Collection, business wear classics with a modern twist (closest to the original Apprentice designs) created for city hotels; the Estate Collection, classic yet fashion forward enough to complement the residential atmosphere of suburban hotels; and the Veranda Collection, with tan sharkskin suiting and unique camp shirts that look right in resorts from the coast, to the tropics to the desert. “We streamlined the look of front desk staff apparel a bit to reflect the guests who visit our hotels.,” Patton says

Still, back of the house “is where most the innovation has taken place,” according to Patton. New fabrics borrowed from the sports industry enhance comfort and breathability for the suitekeeping staff. Colors are less institutional, more flattering. Since chefs are central to Embassy Suites’ signature complimentary cooked to order breakfast, “We wanted to have a little fun” with their uniforms, adds Patton. Traditional whites get an update with green buttons while an Embassy “green” stripe modernizes classic black pants.

Flexibility was also key. “Choices are important because all body types aren’t the same. Some styles are more flattering than others. The choices also allow for some individuality while remaining the parameters of the brand,” says Patton. That’s why there is no mandate for shoes, only “guidelines.” Staff members also have options regarding how they accessorize their uniforms. “Our uniform program is constantly changing and evolving. If something isn’t quite right and needs tweaking, Lafayette 148 New York and Cintas are nimble enough to go in, refine it and change it in the process,” Patton says.