Kevin Hickey, Executive Chef, Four Seasons Hotel Chicago
-- Hotels, 4/1/2007
 Kevin Hickey Executive Chef Four Seasons Hotel Chicago |
This South Side Chicago native found his way back to the Windy City as executive chef of The Ritz-Carlton Chicago, A Four Seasons Hotel, in 2004 and last May joined sister property Four Seasons Chicago in the same leadership role. Here Hickey oversees all food and beverage outlets, including Seasons, one of the city's top restaurants, and commands a kitchen staff of about 50 employees. Saying cooking is something that just always came naturally to him, this acclaimed chef says seeing guests' reaction to his creations is one of the biggest highlights of his job.
How did you get started in the business?
As a kid I cooked at home a lot. My mom worked and left my sister and I at home. She was older so she was the babysitter. My mom would leave us money to order takeout, and my sister would take the money and tell me I had to cook. So I was 9 or 10 and would be digging through the cupboards and freezer finding something to make. It was pretty easy because they were always stocked.
What was your first job outside your home kitchen?
I started cooking professionally at 14 in my uncle's bistro. He owned the Gold Coast Eatery [on Chicago's northside].
What was the first dish you mastered?
The omelet.
Did you have any formal culinary training or do you come from the school of hard knocks?
School of hard knocks. I went to University of Wisconsin Stout and got a BS [degree] in hotel and restaurant management. During school I worked in local restaurants in rural Wisconsin and in the school restaurant.
So were you always interested in the hotel industry?
I had no experience in hotels until college and was exposed there. Stouffer Hotels [the former hotel company] recruited me out of college. They were opening luxury hotel in Chicago - The Stouffer Riviera. I was hired to be the breakfast cook.
What are your key responsibilities in your current role?
It's pretty simple really: I'm responsible for all food produced in the hotel. My No. 1 priority is the quality of the food and efficiency of service. Then there's the menu writing and engineering and various administrative duties.
Was it difficult to make the transition to boss with all the added responsibilities?
The transition was gradual. I saw the job ahead of me before I got it and worked my way up. I was 26 when started with this company. I started as an a.m. sous chef. As long as it's incremental like that you learn to balance the physical activity and creativity with the administrative duties of running a kitchen.
How often does your menu change?
In fine dining we change half of the menu every three months and other half every seven days. In café and roomservice, we change the menu four times a year and try to be as seasonal as we can.
What is your favorite part of your job?
Getting to cook. It always came pretty naturally to me but creating a dish and seeing it to completion is what I love. And I love the reaction. That's what I love about this business. I once had a job in an open kitchen and saw guests' reaction to my work, and that inspired me. There's no real other business like that. You go from nothing to creating something and getting immediate feedback. That brings a level of excitement and satisfaction to the job but also stress and burnout.
What's your biggest challenge?
Customer satisfaction. Absolutely. I have a very demanding clientele, and it's always a challenge to meet and exceed their expectations. That and finding and training staff.
What's your favorite thing to cook?
Risotto. It's always been fascinating because it's just rice but it can be completely transformed into so many things. And it requires your full attention. You can't walk away, but it's a labor of love.
What are some biggest dining or food trends you're seeing today?
I'm seeing a casual approach to fine dining. People are not turned away by price, but they are by stuffy and boring. They want lively, not sedate refined but in a modern way. As far as food goes, the biggest trend we've seen is in molecular gastronomy. And like any trend, there is good and bad about it. The bad is some who can get into it can forget about flavor, texture, nourishment. The good is molecular gastronomy is all about how and why things work and the specific techniques you need to achieve a goal. It introduces level of discipline in the kitchen.
Do you cook at home?
Rarely. I usually keep it pretty simple, one pot meals, stews, a roast with all the vegetables in there, risotto, a curry, nothing too complicated.
If you weren't a chef, what would you be?
A movie producer.
So you're film buff. What's your favorite movie?
The Godfather. It's one of those movies you can watch again and again. It drives my wife nuts. If it's on TV one day, the afternoon is shot.
Does your wife cook?
Yeah, she never did but then we had a child and she's taken to it. I've taught her a few things. She only has about six items in her repertoire, but they're great. And she likes to bake.
Do you have any hobbies?
Not really. I only have one or two days off a week, and then it's all about the family.
How do you use your Vita-Mix blender?
We use it for so many things - soups, sauces, purees, smoothies in the morning. I have at least three or four in my kitchen, and they are always going. I think it's the best blender I've ever used. The quality and power are unsurpassed.
What would you compare your Vita-Mix blender to?
A jet engine. It's just so powerful. That's the thing about it. Without it, a lot of things I do would loose the elegance and texture I get with it. It breaks down the fibers and makes food more flavorful, even more nutritious. And it saves me time and money because I get a higher yield.
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